Plaid blankets laid over the grass and picnic baskets were filled with a feast of decadent food. Elegant models lay across the picnic dressed in avant-garde dresses. What appears to be the perfect picnic scene, is just another fantasy world created by Monique Burts. From dresses that look like cake, to dresses crafted completely out of paper, Burts puts on wearable art performances to tell her story.
Burts is a wearable artist and costume designer in the city who's always had a passion for fashion since a young age. She is an IU Indianapolis alumni that graduated from the Herron School of Art and Design in 2023 with a degree in sculpture.
Her collection, “77 and sunny,” was created in response to an exhibition prompt by the Michael O’Brien Gallery at the Phoenix Theatre Cultural Center. The gallery allowed for a diverse array of artists to present their work.
“The prompt for the exhibition invited artists to explore the interconnectedness between mental health and artistic expression. I chose to use the prompt as an opportunity to reflect on my personal journey with mental health,” Burts said.
Prior to Herron, Burts attended a private university while pursuing a major she wasn’t passionate about.
“After my first year at that private university, I took some time off and began working at a shoe store, where I was able to express myself fashionably and assist customers in styling. I started working on my art again and having fun with materials,” said Burts. “Eventually, I submitted a portfolio to Herron consisting of various drawings, paintings, ceramics and sculptures. Once I was accepted, I decided to pivot and focus on what always brought me joy.”
At Herron, Burts invested her time in the annual Wearable Art Show, which takes place in the early spring, and is hosted by the Sculpture Department. In her first year participating, Burts debuted one of her very first dresses made out of paper.
As a college student, paper was the most affordable and accessible material at the time. Paper was one of the first materials Burts used and is now her signature medium. On average, Burts uses around 1,500 sheets of copy paper per dress.
Monique Burts' first ever paper dress. (Photo courtesy of Monique Burts)
Burts said, “Paper, the first material I used, was not so much out of choice but out of necessity because I started designing these garments when I was in college on a tight budget.”
While studying at Herron, Burts began to play and work with new materials, which she still uses in her work today.
“Metal, plaster, wood, spackling, plastics, found objects, anything and everything,” Burts said.
Burts finds that using nontraditional materials allows her to stray from the rules and create more intuitively.
“I haven't leaned into traditional fabrics yet, right now I personally have a lot more fun when I'm able to manipulate metal or wood to create my pieces,” Burts said.
During her time at Herron, Burts was challenged during critiques and was pushed to step outside her comfort zone. Mentors like Eric Nordguen, a Herron sculpture professor, and Greg Hull, the current dean of sculpture, were foundational figures in her growth as an artist.
“I can always hear the voice of my former sculpture professor Eric Nordgulen saying, ‘In order for it to be a sculpture, it needs to be interesting all around,’” said Burts.
Before becoming the dean, Hull had been a sculptor professor at Herron for 22 years. He described Burts as being a driven and inquisitive student. As a professor, Hull and Burts would collaborate on projects, leading Burts to later declare her BFA in sculpture under his mentorship.
“I enjoyed how curious Monique was but also her ability to connect wearable art to the body while also thinking about motion,” Hull said. “It was really great to see her work as a student but now her work has evolved to become so much more impactful and have much meaning in its conveyance.”
Nordguen’s and Hull's mentorships went far beyond their technical instruction. They affirmed her identity and desire to have fashion works come to life in unconventional ways. The guidance and encouragement from her mentors shaped Burts as an artist, while simultaneously creating lifelong connections.
“The relationships I have with them now extend far beyond Herron, sculpture and the art world: They are family. Their impact will last a lifetime,” Burts said.
Burts took classes at the Eskenazi Fine Arts Center, which is home to the sculptor and ceramic program. Unlike traditional classrooms, there are art studios equipped with a welding, woodshop, printmaking and a production studio.
“The energy inside the Eskenazi Fine Arts Center is electric, and it’s an energy you feel as soon as you step into the space. The environment fosters a culture of exploration and freedom,” Burts said. "Those ‘rules’ of sculpture, along with the energy of that space, have stuck with me as I’ve built my portfolio as a wearable artist.”
Burts describes her creative process as a practice of solitude and peace of mind, sharing that her ideas often stem from the sounds she's listening to. As she lights her incense and dances around in her big headphones, Burts gets into her creative flow. Listening to anything from Parliament funk to Issac Hayes soul, she becomes inspired.
“Music is a big part of my creative process, I usually spend a lot of time listening to music, also dancing and really feeling the music, trying to visualize what a project could look like with that sound,” Burts said.
After graduating, Burts had the opportunity to construct her first commissioned garment for the Indy 500 Snake Pit Ball at the Indiana Roof Ballroom, as well as work with the Goodwill of Central Indiana on a sustainability campaign.
Most recently, Burts had the opportunity to design a collection for the 2025 Art & Soul Featured Artist Showcase at the Madam Walker Legacy Center. She also designed a collection for the Indianapolis Children's Museum. This collection was for their rotating exhibit, “Take Me There Peru,” which is an immersive cultural exhibit. Burt's did an event with the museum featuring a collection with authentic Peruvian fabrics.
Through her creative narratives Burts hopes to induce excitement while transforming viewers into a world of her own.
“I want people to feel that excitement of a performance that feels exhilarating and fun,” Burts said. “I enjoy creating worlds that feel like they’re taking people out of their everyday space with their everyday mindset.”
Mya Kalita (she/her) is a senior majoring in journalism and public relations with a minor in communications. She is a writer for The Campus Citizen and for the publication Where Words Ignite Worlds.
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